When one considers a trip to Belgium, one thinks of towns like Bruges, Ghent, or Antwerp, all of them in Flanders. Beautiful cities, no one disputes that. However, let me tell you this time about Wallonia, that “other” region that too many travelers unjustly overlook. I already told you about Liège, the Battle of the Bulge and some Walloon chocolates. Well, this time I would like to suggest a visit to Durbuy, a charming village. Or is it not a village…?
The smallest city in the world
Durbuy has the appearance and the atmosphere of a village, but it is officially a city. It is considered by many to be the smallest city in the world. And why? Although it has just over 10,000 inhabitants and the appearance of a medieval village, this small town ceased to be a village in 1331, the year it was elevated to its current status. Its strategic position and its relevance as a center of commerce and justice made it the target of frequent attacks in medieval times. At that time only cities could have their army, so King John I of Bohemia had the idea of granting it that status to avoid continuous troop movements from other larger urban centers and to be able to establish a permanent army there. The result you can see in the photos; a city very different from those that one normally imagines.
Visiting Durbuy
As I said, Durbuy is located in the Belgian region of Wallonia, about 45km south of Liège and about 100km east of Charleroi. Charleroi airport, with its low-cost flights, is one of the cheapest options for getting close to the area. There may also be cheap flights to Brussels (125km), which was our point of arrival and departure. From there it is convenient to get around by rental car. The highways are free and in little more than 1h 30m, you will arrive in this charming corner. Once there, the wisest thing to do is to leave the car in the parking lot at the exit of the village (for a fee) and stroll quietly. If you try, you could walk around the village in a little more than half an hour, but there is a lot to photograph and several places worth a visit.
The most outstanding building in the “city” is the Castle of the Counts of Ursel, which in 1731 was rebuilt on the ruins of a fortress of the eleventh century. Located on the banks of the river Ourthe, it endows the town with charm… but as far as I know, it cannot be visited. Another unmissable place is Les Topiaires Park; the largest topiary art garden in the world. It is only closed in January, the month in which we visited, so we avoided it by accident. Anyway, I dare to recommend it because of the pictures we saw of its fantastic plant sculptures. You can also visit the Chêne farm (microbrewery) and the Saint-Amour jam factory (both free admission). Last but not least, we must approach La Falize, a rock wall with a curious cavity. And, if we have time, we can take the opportunity to practice adventure sports (kayaking is the most demanded) or to make a visit to the surroundings. One possibility is to visit the megalithic field of Wéris (13km) and another is to visit the Labyrinth of Barvaux (8km), especially suitable for those traveling with children.
Accommodation in Durbuy
I don’t usually recommend specific accommodations, but thanks to the kindness of the Walloon Tourist Office we had the pleasure of staying overnight at La Lisière, a small house located in the fields surrounding Durbuy (photo above). La Lisière is a B&B with 3 rooms – each one more coquettish as you can see in the photos – and a single apartment. It is a real haven of peace. The breakfast is delicious and the owner, Stephan, is a charming host. You may think that I recommend this place because we were guests and we owe the favor, but the average of the 45 reviews it has on Booking is 9.3, so we are not the only ones who left there satisfied. If it fits your budget (80€ double room with breakfast), I think it is worth spending at least a day at La Lisière.
